Asakusa: Senso-ji and the river
The great temple, the lantern, the backstreets, and the Skytree across the water. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Kaminarimon
The thunder gate, and the giant red lantern everyone photographs. Come before nine and you can stand under it without queueing for the shot; by eleven the whole approach is shoulders.

2. Nakamise-dori
The stall-lined approach to the temple — *senbei* (rice crackers) grilled in front of you, *ningyo-yaki* cakes, paper fans. Eat as you walk, but don't linger; the real *Asakusa* is in the lanes either side.

3. Senso-ji main hall and pagoda
The *-ji* (Buddhist temple) is Tokyo's oldest, rebuilt after the war but no less alive for it. Wave the incense smoke over yourself at the cauldron if you like; the five-storey pagoda is to your left as you face the hall.

4. Hoppy-dori
A short street of open-fronted *izakaya* west of the temple, named for the cheap beer-ish drink. Mid-morning it's being hosed down and set up; come back at dusk and it's the loudest, friendliest block in *Asakusa*.

5. Azuma bridge
Walk east to the river and the red *Azumabashi*. From the bridge the Skytree stands clear across the water, with the golden Asahi flame beneath it. The light is best with the morning sun behind you.

6. Sumida riverside walk
Drop to the embankment path along the *Sumida*. Cherry trees the whole length — extraordinary in early April — and the river buses pulling in below. Follow it back up to Honjo-Azumabashi for the metro.

Asakusa: Senso-ji and the river