Jinbocho is where Tokyo keeps its second-hand books — the largest cluster of them anywhere, run by booksellers who arranged their shops around the sun. Most of the fronts on Yasukuni-dori face north, because north light won't bleach the spines; walk the south side and the whole trade is laid out for you.
Past the big general shops, the street splinters into specialists — ukiyo-e prints, film posters, architecture only — and you don't need Japanese to browse the print and photography ones. When your arms are full, stop in a kissaten, one of the old siphon-coffee houses, and read for an hour; the curry shops next door are the other local fixture.
Then climb toward Ochanomizu. The green dome of the Holy Resurrection Cathedral — Nikolai-do, 1891, Russian Orthodox — is a genuine surprise against this skyline. Past Meiji University and the strange little street that sells nothing but guitars, end at Hijiribashi, the bridge over the deep Kanda-gawa cut where three rail lines cross at once below you. Ochanomizu station is right there.
