This is the Jugendstil walk, with a market threaded through it. Two great domes — one baroque, one gilded — and Otto Wagner's fingerprints on everything in between, ending where the city comes to shop.
Start at the Karlskirche, the green baroque dome with its pair of carved columns doubled in the reflecting pool. Sit on the pool's edge; the church was composed to be seen from there. Then Wagner's two white-and-gold Stadtbahn pavilions on the square — 1898, tiny, perfect — before the Secession and its golden dome, the breakaway artists' manifesto in metal. The Beethoven Frieze is downstairs; go down for it.
Then the Naschmarkt, the long market row laid over the buried river. Walk it end to end before you buy — produce gives way to spice gives way to Beisls. Look up at the Majolikahaus, Wagner again, its facade a climbing field of flowers above the stalls.
Finish at Kettenbrückengasse, where the Saturday flea market spreads if it's the day, and the U4 — Wagner's station — carries you off.
