Beethoven came to Heiligenstadt for the air and the quiet, and in 1802, in a house up here, he wrote the letter to his brothers now known as the Heiligenstadt Testament — the one where he admits how far his deafness has gone, and decides to keep living for the work. The walk follows where he walked.
Start at the end of the U4 and climb into the old core, where the city loosens into wine country. Pfarrplatz is the centre of it: a small square around the Pfarrkirche St. Michael, a Beethoven lodging on one side, Mayer am Pfarrplatz — the Heuriger (the wine tavern pouring the new vintage) — on another. Note it for later. Then take the Beethovengang, the stream path he paced for his nerves, plane trees overhead and the Schreiberbach beside you, a bust of him halfway along.
The path lifts you to the vineyard edge, the Wienerwald (the Vienna Woods) at your back and the rooftops below. Come down through Nussdorf to the end of the tram D, which runs straight back to the opera. End with a glass on Pfarrplatz if the season's right — autumn is when the new wine is on.


