This is the oldest corner of Vienna, walked before the day warms up — medieval lanes, the city's first church, and a memorial that stops you cold, all in a tight two and a half kilometres behind the cathedral.
Start at the Stephansdom and step straight off the tourist square into the Blutgasse, a quarter of linked medieval courtyards. Wind to the Schönlaterngasse, curved and lantern-hung, with its basilisk legend posted on the wall. Then Judenplatz: Rachel Whiteread's concrete library of unreadable books, the Holocaust memorial at the heart of what was medieval Jewish Vienna, with the excavated synagogue in the museum alongside. Give it the time it asks for.
Down toward the canal to the Ruprechtskirche — the oldest church in the city, ivy on Romanesque stone — and across to the Hoher Markt for the Ankeruhr, the Art Nouveau clock whose figures parade at noon.
End through the Bermuda Triangle, the bar-lanes that sleep by day, to Schwedenplatz on the canal. You'll have walked a thousand years and the city won't be properly awake yet.

