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The Jewish quarter and the medieval lanes
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The Jewish quarter and the medieval lanes

Whiteread's memorial, the oldest church in Vienna, and the lanes that predate the boulevard.

Photo: Gugerell / Wikimedia Commons, CC0

Drafted by Claude — the editor hasn’t walked this one yet. We’ll update this notice once it’s been verified on the ground.

Distance

2.6 km

Time

~ 70 min

Difficulty

Easy

End

Schwedenplatz (U1/U4)

Best at

morning

Right now
25°C· Overcast

Open in Maps for turn-by-turn, or take it offline as GPX.

This is the oldest corner of Vienna, walked before the day warms up — medieval lanes, the city's first church, and a memorial that stops you cold, all in a tight two and a half kilometres behind the cathedral.

Start at the Stephansdom and step straight off the tourist square into the Blutgasse, a quarter of linked medieval courtyards. Wind to the Schönlaterngasse, curved and lantern-hung, with its basilisk legend posted on the wall. Then Judenplatz: Rachel Whiteread's concrete library of unreadable books, the Holocaust memorial at the heart of what was medieval Jewish Vienna, with the excavated synagogue in the museum alongside. Give it the time it asks for.

Down toward the canal to the Ruprechtskirche — the oldest church in the city, ivy on Romanesque stone — and across to the Hoher Markt for the Ankeruhr, the Art Nouveau clock whose figures parade at noon.

End through the Bermuda Triangle, the bar-lanes that sleep by day, to Schwedenplatz on the canal. You'll have walked a thousand years and the city won't be properly awake yet.

The route

On the map.

Elevation

117 m·127 m·166193 m ASL

Stops along the way

Things to notice.

  1. 01
    1

    Blutgasse

    Start from the cathedral and slip into the *Blutgasse* (the lane's grim old name needs no translating) — a stair-and-courtyard quarter of medieval houses just behind the *Stephansdom*. Look through the open gateways at the linked courtyards; this is the oldest grain of the city, and it's a minute from the busiest square.

  2. 02
    2

    Schönlaterngasse

    Wind round to the *Schönlaterngasse* (the lane of the beautiful lantern), curved and quiet, with the wrought-iron lantern that names it and the Basilisk House along its run. Read the wall plaque about the basilisk legend — it's the city telling a tall tale on itself.

  3. 03
    3

    Judenplatz

    On to *Judenplatz*, the square at the centre of medieval Jewish Vienna. Rachel Whiteread's Holocaust memorial — a sealed concrete library, the books turned spine-inward — sits in the middle. Stand with it a while. The *Misrachi-Haus* on the square runs the museum and the excavated medieval synagogue beneath.

  4. 04
    4

    Ruprechtskirche

    Down toward the canal to the *Ruprechtskirche* (St Rupert's), the oldest church in Vienna, small and ivy-grown on its mound above the old port. It's often locked, but the worn stone and the plain Romanesque tower are the point; circle it once.

  5. 05
    5

    Hoher Markt & the Ankeruhr

    Cut to the *Hoher Markt*, the city's oldest square, for the *Ankeruhr* (the Anker Clock) — an Art Nouveau bridge-clock where, at noon, a procession of historical figures crosses the dial to music. Time it for twelve if you can; the rest of the hour, a single figure marks the time.

  6. 06
    6

    Bermuda Triangle to Schwedenplatz

    Finish through the so-called *Bermuda Triangle*, the knot of narrow bar-lined lanes around *Ruprechtsplatz* and *Rabensteig*. Quiet by morning, loud by night. *Schwedenplatz* and the U1/U4 are on the canal at the bottom.