Vienna built itself a city of the dead larger than the city of the living, and then filled the best plots with composers. The Zentralfriedhof opened in 1874 on the flat ground out past Simmering — three million graves, more residents than the Innere Stadt has ever held, and a tram line laid on to reach it.
Three and a half kilometres, taken slowly. From Tor 2 the central avenue runs dead straight to the Ehrengräber, the honorary graves: Beethoven and Schubert, Brahms and Johann Strauss, a Mozart cenotaph for the man whose actual grave is across town at Sankt Marx. You don't have to be musical to feel the weight of that one square. A few rows on, Falco — the 1980s, granted the same honour, and never without flowers.
The Kirche on the rise is Max Hegele's, 1911, the cemetery's green-domed centre and a deliberate echo of Otto Wagner's Steinhof. Climb the steps for the Jugendstil interior.
Then north-west to the old Jewish section by Tor 1 — left half-wild on purpose, ivy over the fallen stones. End at Tor 3, the 6/71 back into town.