The Zentralfriedhof: the musicians' graves
Beethoven, Brahms, Schubert, Strauss, Falco — and a cemetery bigger than the old city. This is a Claude-drafted route awaiting the editor's walk.

1. Zentralfriedhof Tor 2
The main gate, and the only one that matters for this walk. Trams 6 and 71 stop right outside. Pick up a map at the kiosk; the *Friedhof* (cemetery) is the size of a small town and the grid is not always obvious.

2. Die Ehrengräber (the honorary graves)
Straight up the central avenue from Tor 2, group 32A. Beethoven and Schubert moved here in 1888, Brahms and Johann Strauss the younger close by, a cenotaph for Mozart in the middle. The most-visited square metres in Vienna that aren't a palace.

3. Falco's grave
Group 40, a short walk south-west of the composers. Hans Hölzel, who recorded 'Rock Me Amadeus', under a glass-and-steel marker that fans keep busy. The 20th century gets its honorary grave too.

4. Dr-Karl-Lueger-Kirche (the Karl-Borromäus-Kirche)
The domed *Kirche* (church) on the rise at the cemetery's heart, finished 1911, Max Hegele's answer to the Steinhof church on the far side of the city. The Jugendstil interior is worth the few steps up; the crypt holds the city's interwar mayors.

5. The old Jewish section (Tor 1)
North-west towards Tor 1, the pre-war Jewish *Friedhof*. Much of it is deliberately left to grow wild — ivy over toppled stones, the names of a community that largely didn't return. Quieter than anywhere else here, and the point of the whole walk if you let it be.

6. Tor 3 and the tram back
Loop back east to Tor 3 on the 6/71 line. If you've timed it for late morning the light comes sideways through the avenues. Sit a moment before the tram; you've covered more ground than it felt like.

The Zentralfriedhof: the musicians' graves