The Western Islands are three rectangles of made land, dredged up in the 1620s when the harbour ran out of room, and they still feel like a working edge of the city rather than a museum of one. Three and a half kilometres looped from Centraal through boatyards, over a wooden drawbridge, and along the prettiest quay most visitors never reach.
Walk in past the station and cross to Bickerseiland, where the Bickersgracht still has hauled-out boats and a serious houseboat row. The Drieharingenbrug — a white wooden drawbridge rebuilt to its 1625 lines, the narrowest in Amsterdam — takes you onto Prinseneiland, all converted brick warehouses and kept hoist beams. Galgenstraat, 'gallows street', earns one dry line: it looked across the water to where the city hanged people. It is, now, completely charming.
Cross to Realeneiland and the Zandhoek, a row of 17th-century sand-market houses with carved gable stones, and stop at De Gouden Reael on the corner for a drink at the water. Loop back to Centraal with the Westerdok opening up beside you.

