Montjuïc has a famous face — castle, museums, the Olympic ring — and a quiet seaward one that almost nobody walks. This is the quiet one: a modern botanical garden up top, a city of the dead stacked down the cliff below it, the working port spread out at the bottom. Three and a half kilometres, downhill, best in the soft early light.
Take the metro to Espanya and bus 150 up the hill to the Jardí Botànic de Barcelona — terraced beds of plants from every Mediterranean climate on earth, Californian, South African, Australian, all at home in Barcelona's own. Walk down through them to the Mirador del Migdia, which faces the sea and the cargo cranes, not the city.
Then the Cementiri de Montjuïc, entered from above. It's extraordinary: tomb-niches tiered up and down the seaward rock, founded in 1883, the harbour working far below. Lower down the family pantheons become modernista architecture — Miró is buried here, and Cerdà who drew the grid of the modern city.
The gate is at the bottom, by the Zona Franca, and bus 150 runs you back over the hill to Espanya.
