The left side of the Eixample is where the district stops performing and starts living — fewer Gaudí queues, more students, markets and courtyards. This walk, about three kilometres, threads the institutions that give the Esquerra its grain.
Start at the Universitat de Barcelona's historic building on Gran Via, Elies Rogent's 19th-century pile, and don't just admire the front — walk in. The cloister gardens behind it, orange trees and a pond and reading students, are open to anyone calm enough to look like they belong. From there to the Mercat del Ninot, the working food market where the neighbourhood does its actual shopping and its standing-up lunch.
West to the Escola Industrial, an old factory turned campus you can walk straight through, then into one of the opened-up interior-block gardens — the green Cerdà meant every block to have. End among the easy afternoon terraces of the Gaixample, with the metro at Hospital Clínic a block on.