Lipótváros is official Pest — the banks, the ministries, the Parliament — laid out on a grid in the nineteenth century and built to impress. This is the monumental walk, three kilometres of squares and façades, best in the afternoon when the light comes round onto the Parliament's river front.
Start at St István-bazilika, whose dome was capped at the Parliament's height so neither would out-rank the other. North to Szabadság tér, the grand square where the city's arguments with its own history are written in stone — a Soviet memorial at one end, the US embassy at another. Past the carved frieze of the National Bank, then on to Kossuth tér, the ceremonial square the Parliament was built to face.
The Parliament's river front is the thing: 700 rooms of neo-Gothic spire along the Danube, finished in 1904. Walk its full length on the embankment side. Then south to the Shoes on the Danube Bank — sixty iron pairs cast onto the stone for those shot into the river in 1944. Stand with it. The M2 is back at Kossuth tér.