The Nagykörút (the Grand Boulevard, literally the great ring road) is the spine that made modern Pest. Laid out in the 1870s over a filled-in branch of the Danube, it curves for four kilometres from one bridge to another, and the bright yellow trams 4 and 6 run its full length — the busiest tram line in Europe, and the best free tour in the city.
Start at Nyugati pályaudvar, the station whose iron shed came from Gustave Eiffel's company, with the Vígszínház comedy theatre a block off. Then walk south. The boulevard rises through Oktogon, the eight-cornered crossing, into the most ornate stretch, where every apartment block competes in stucco and caryatids. Halfway down sits the New York Café — once the unofficial office of the city's writers, now a gilded spectacle you can walk into for nothing and leave unbothered.
Keep going past the körút (ring boulevard) shopfronts to Boráros tér, where the road meets the river at Petőfi Bridge. The trams turn here. Ride one back the way you came; the boulevard is better the second time.