Pasarét is where Budapest went modern and then went quiet. In the hills of Buda's second district, the 1930s left a neighbourhood of flat-roofed villas, an experimental housing colony and one near-perfect modernist square — and then the trees grew up and softened all of it into a garden suburb you could walk for hours.
Begin in Pasaréti tér, the 1934 set-piece by Gyula Rimanóczy where the Franciscan church, the bus terminus and the shopfronts were drawn as a single composition; the brick tower and the colonnade still hold together. Walk up to Napraforgó utca, the 1931 'Sunflower Street' colony — Budapest's Weissenhof, two dozen small houses by the best architects of the day. Then wander the villa streets: Gábor Áron utca, the climb up Lóránt utca where the city drops away, the leafy run of Hidegkúti út. No single house is the point. The accumulation is.
Come back down to the square, take a coffee under Rimanóczy's tower, and the 5 or 29 bus runs you back to Széll Kálmán tér.