Újlipótváros is Budapest's quiet modernist district — laid out in the 1930s, lined with clean Bauhaus apartment blocks, and threaded with the memory of two diplomats who saved tens of thousands of lives here in the war's last winter. It's a residential walk, not a monumental one, and the better for it. Take it slowly, in the morning, the way the neighbourhood takes itself.
Start in Szent István Park, the green heart, with the Wallenberg memorial set among its trees, then walk the café-and-bookshop length of Pozsonyi út for the 1930s frontages. The Carl Lutz memorial — an angel reaching to a fallen figure — marks the other half of that wartime story; read the plaque and walk on.
The Pozsonyi úti Reformed church carries the same restrained modern line as the flats around it. End on the embankment, the parliament dome downstream, and follow the water south to the tram at Jászai Mari tér.
