Nyboder is the navy's housing. Christian IV laid out the original yellow row houses in 1631 to keep his sailors close to the harbour and out of the alleys of the city, and four centuries later most of the original streets are still residential — some Royal Danish Navy, some private. The walk threads through the yellow on a quiet afternoon when the streets feel like a small Dutch village dropped a few minutes' walk from the royal palace.
Two and a half kilometres, seventy-five minutes. Start at Kongens Nytorv and walk north through Bredgade to the back side of Marmorkirken — the dome that closes the Amalienborg axis is visible from most of Nyboder. St. Pauls Plads and St. Pauls Kirke mark the start of the yellow streets.
Then Sankt Pauls Gade, the canonical Nyboder row — unbroken yellow on both sides, white-painted shutters, low doors that someone has just locked or just opened. Nyboder Mindestuer (the Memory Rooms) at number 20 keeps one original house as a 19th-c sailor's home, museum-style.
Continue north-east; the streets eventually open onto the harbour edge near Esplanaden. Østerport S-tog is fifteen minutes north.