The north side has its villages too, and Drumcondra is the riverside one — the Tolka running brown and quick through a long green park, the old Catholic colleges behind their walls, and Croke Park's vast bowl pressing on the streets to the south. Come on a dry afternoon and walk the river first, while the light is in the willows.
Start on Drumcondra Bridge, where the road crosses the Tolka and the village does its small business, then drop into Griffith Park and follow the river west past the weir and the willows. This is the heart of it. Loop back to the high walls on Clonliffe Road, hiding the Archbishop's House and the old seminary grounds, and on into the open paths of All Hallows, the 1842 missionary college now wrapped into DCU's campus. South, the curve of Croke Park rises over the terraces — 82,000 seats among the two-up-two-downs, the home of Gaelic games.
Wind home through the red-brick avenues off Grace Park Road, comfortable and tree-lined. The DART and the bus both leave from Drumcondra station, where you began.