Rumelihisarı is the fortress Mehmed II built in 1452 to seal the Bosphorus and starve out Constantinople before the siege. Three towers, walls thirty feet thick, the whole thing thrown up in months and obsolete a year later when the city fell. Above it, on the ridge where the climb gets serious, the Ottoman poet Tevfik Fikret built his house and is now buried there with most of the twentieth century's other writers.
Three kilometres, with one steep climb in the middle. The 22 bus drops you at the fortress gates. Walk the curtain wall first — the three towers are named for the viziers who built each, and the four-month construction is one of the conquest's better-told stories. Then the climb. Yahya Kemal Caddesi goes straight up; pace yourself.
Aşiyan Müzesi is Tevfik Fikret's actual house, finished in 1906. The terrace looks back down on the fortress you've just walked. The cemetery is two minutes along the ridge — Tevfik Fikret, Orhan Veli, Nazım Hikmet's cenotaph, Cahit Sıtkı Tarancı. Walk back down to the sahil; the same bus runs both ways.
