Kurama and Kibune are two villages on either side of one small mountain, and the right way to do them is to walk over the top rather than around. Up through the cedars to a temple on the slope, over the ridge where a famous warrior trained with goblins, and down to a shrine and a river full of restaurants.
About four and a half kilometres, best on a dry morning — the trail is roots and steps and turns greasy in rain. From Kurama station, past the giant tengu mask, climb to Kurama-dera, the -ji (temple) hung high on the hillside; stand on the triangle in the forecourt where the mountain's power is said to pool.
Behind the hall the path climbs into the -mori (forest) over the saddle, past the hollow where the boy Yoshitsune is said to have learned to fight. Then down to Kifune-jinja, the water god's jinja (shrine) with its red-railed steps — float a paper fortune in the spring to read it.
End along the stream where the kawadoko terraces (summer river-decks) hang over the water. Bus to Kibune-guchi and the Eizan line home.
