Fushimi is the part of Kyoto that smells of fermenting rice. Soft, iron-free spring water made this the country's great sake (rice wine) town, and the brewers' black-and-white storehouses still line a willow-hung canal a few stops south of the city centre. Three kilometres, an afternoon, and you can taste your way through most of it.
Start at the Gekkeikan Okura museum, the old storehouse on the water, where the brewing process is laid out and the tour ends in a tasting. Out the back, the jikkokubune — the flat-bottomed boats that once carried sake down to Osaka — slip along the canal under the willows; ride one or just walk the towpath, the brewery walls doubling in the water beside you.
On past Kizakura's brewpub to the Teradaya, the inn where Sakamoto Ryoma shot his way out of an 1866 ambush — reconstructed, but the story carries it. Then the brewers' streets, where you wander shop to shop with a cup in hand. End at Gokonomiya shrine and its famous spring, and stroll the short way up to Fushimi-Momoyama station.