Fushimi Inari is the one walk in Kyoto that is also a climb. The head shrine of some thirty thousand Inari shrines across Japan sits at the foot of a sacred mountain, and the path to the top runs under thousands of vermilion torii (shrine gates) packed so tight they become a tunnel. Four and a half kilometres up and down, best started early — by mid-morning the Senbon Torii is a slow shuffle, and the whole point is to have a stretch of the corridor to yourself.
Come out of Inari station to the Romon gate and the main taisha (grand shrine), guarded by the fox messengers with keys in their mouths. Behind it the gates begin. Take the right fork up through the Senbon Torii, past the inner shrine where you lift the wishing stone, and keep climbing. The work is real and the steps are many.
Yotsutsuji is the saddle, and the moment: the trees part and the south of the city opens below. Turn back here or loop the summit — your choice. Either way, descend for kitsune udon at a slope-side tea house and the Keihan line home.
