Belém is where Portugal sailed from and where it built the monuments to say so. Three and a half kilometres along the Tejo, taking the four things that matter and one tart that matters as much: the mosteiro, the custard, the monument, the tower — and the wave-roofed museum to end on.
Start at the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos before the coaches arrive. The Manueline cloister is the wonder — stone carved into rope and coral, two storeys of it, almost nobody there at nine. Note that it closes Mondays, so this is a Tuesday-to-Sunday walk. Then the two-minute walk to Pastéis de Belém, where the tart has been made since 1837. Walk past the first room to the tiled halls at the back and sit.
Cross the garden to the river. The Padrão dos Descobrimentos is the prow-shaped monument; the marble compass-rose paved in front of it is the part to stand on. West along the water to the Torre de Belém, the fortress on the Tejo — admire it from the breakwater rather than queue.
End at MAAT, walking back east. Climb the white wave roof. The bridge, the river, the long light off the water — that's the close.


