The best view of Lisbon isn't in Lisbon. It's across the Tejo, from the far bank, where the whole city stacks itself up the hills for you — and the way to get there is a ten-minute ferry that costs less than a coffee.
Three and a half kilometres, plus the crossing both ways. Take the cacilheiro (the Cacilhas ferry) from Cais do Sodré and stand at the stern; the waterfront pulls away and the city arranges itself. You land at Cacilhas, which is a working river town — the marisqueira (seafood restaurant) row along the quay is where Lisboetas come for the percebes and the grilled fish, and you should too. Then west along Rua do Ginjal, the half-ruined cannery strip under the cliff.
The elevador (lift) up the Boca do Vento cliff is free and lands you in Almada Velha, the old town, where the miradouro gives you the oh-my-god: Lisbon entire, the bridge, the river. The Cristo Rei statue watches from its hill nearby — a proper detour, take it or leave it. End back on the quay; the ferry runs late.
