Campo de Ourique sits on its own plateau, a village that happens to be inside a capital — a calm grid where tram 28 finally gives up and the rest of Lisbon's noise doesn't follow. This is the morning version: the cemetery first, then the food hall, then down.
Start at Prazeres, the end of the tram line, and cross to the Cemitério dos Prazeres — a city of the dead on a grid, cypress avenues running between miniature stone houses. Walk the main avenue to the Palmela mausoleum, a stepped pyramid that is, improbably, the largest private one in Europe; from the far wall the 25 de Abril bridge and the river spread out below. It's a quiet, strange, completely unmorbid place.
Then into the neighbourhood: short streets, family shops, the pale forties church of Santo Condestável, and the Mercado de Campo de Ourique — a 1930s market hall now half produce, half small kitchens and shared tables. Go hungry and go early; by lunch it's full. Walk out down Rua Ferreira Borges and let the plateau lower you gently towards Rato and the metro.
