Estrela is the green, grand, slightly sleepy west-centre — a basilica you can climb and a garden you won't want to leave. Three kilometres, mostly gentle, anchored by one enormous dome.
Start at the Basílica da Estrela, the white dome finished in 1790 that you can see from half of Lisbon. Climb it: the terrace around the dome opens the whole city, and the climb is never crowded. The cool marble inside is the reward coming down. Across the road, the Jardim da Estrela — a bandstand moved here from the old Rossio, a duck pond, enormous trees and a quiosque under them. Take the slow hour here; it's the heart of the walk.
South to the Cemitério dos Ingleses, the walled English cemetery where Henry Fielding lies under the cypresses; ring the bell and the keeper lets you in. Back at the garden's north edge, the pink-and-white Assembleia da República shows itself across the rooftops below — the seat of power seen from the quietest park.
Then down past the antique shops of Rua de São Bento, gilt mirrors and chandeliers mid-repair, all the way to Rato and the metro.


