Everyone walks Graça for the viewpoints and stops there. Push one hill east and you reach Penha de França — higher, quieter, and almost entirely free of anyone holding a phone above their head. This is the eastern hill nobody walks, and it has the view to make you wonder why.
Three kilometres, with a proper climb early and a long descent to finish. Start at the Graça tram 28 stop, take a coffee, and turn away from the crowds into the streets behind. The Igreja da Penha de França sits at the top, founded on a sailor's vow and plain enough outside that you might pass it — but the terrace beside it is the reason you came.
The Miradouro da Penha de França is one of the highest viewpoints in Lisbon and one of the least used: the river, the castle, the western city laid out, and usually a local or two for company. Stay. Then wander the tiled backstreets — washing lines, stair-streets, the villagey Lisbon hiding in plain sight.
Finish with the long calçada descent into Anjos, busier and flatter, where the metro takes you back. Down on foot is the right way; the view comes up to meet you the whole way.
