Pimlico is the neighbourhood Belgravia doesn't acknowledge. Same stucco, same garden squares, a quarter of the ambition and none of the self-regard. This walk takes the quietest possible line south from Victoria, through the grid of white terraces Thomas Cubitt built in the 1830s.
St George's Square is the centrepiece — a long formal garden between two rows of cream facades. Pimlico Road has the serious antique dealers; Warwick Square has the church and the mansard roofs. The whole thing deposits you at Tate Britain, London's most undervisited major museum. The Turner galleries are all there, in the best Turner room in the world. Go on a weekday and you may have them almost to yourself.