The Templo de Debod is Madrid's most improbable monument: a real ancient Egyptian temple, two thousand years old, dismantled and shipped here when the Aswan High Dam was about to drown it, and rebuilt on a ridge above the Parque del Oeste. It is also the city's agreed-upon place to watch the sun go down. Do this one in the evening.
About three and a half kilometres. From Plaza de España, walk to the temple and its reflecting pools, then go inside — it's free — for the reliefs. Step west to the terrace and claim a spot on the wall: the sun drops behind the Casa de Campo and the sierra, and the whole city turns out for it.
Then north along Paseo del Pintor Rosales, the clifftop avenue with its terrace cafés, and down through La Rosaleda, the rose garden best in late-spring bloom. The western slopes fall away below into shade and curving paths — a quiet after the crowded overlook.
Climb back to Argüelles, where three metro lines meet and the student streets are good for a late drink. Behind you, the temple is lit.