Moncloa is where Madrid puts its monuments to itself — a granite triumphal arch, a tower built to look at the city, and the university campus laid out on long ceremonial axes. It is the most planned, most rhetorical corner of the city, and the antidote sits right beside it: the Parque del Oeste falling away green to the west.
About four kilometres, best in the afternoon. From Moncloa, start under the Arco de la Victoria, the heavy 1950s arch the city has never settled its feelings about. Walk to the Faro de Moncloa, the slim observation tower with its glass deck — go up for the view from the sierra to the rooftops, or just take it from below.
Into the Ciudad Universitaria then, the 1930s campus of brick faculties and long lawns, a working university you can wander freely. Cut south through its gardens to the northern edge of the Parque del Oeste, where the campus noise drops away and the wooded slope takes over.
Follow it down to Argüelles, three metro lines and the student bars. Look back north once at the arch — the walk closing where it began.