Most people do Les Invalides as a single gold-domed photograph and leave. The better walk treats the dome as the middle of the story and builds a morning around it: Rodin first, the ministries between, the market at the end.
Start at the Musée Rodin — the garden ticket is cheap and the sculpture lawns are nearly empty early. The Thinker, the Gates of Hell, the Burghers of Calais, all out in the roses; it shuts on Mondays, so plan around that. Then west along rue de Varenne, past the high gates of Matignon and the ministries, where the doors are the only clue to what's behind them.
The Hôtel des Invalides is the monument. Under the gold dome lies Napoleon, a red sarcophagus in a sunken well — go in for the room, or stay outside and feel small. Walk out onto the esplanade and turn around for the view the quarter was designed to deliver. Then rue Cler for cheese, bread, and the ministry lunch crowd. Carry it five minutes on to the Champ de Mars, or take the metro at École Militaire.
