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La Villette: the red follies and the Canal de l'Ourcq
parklandpost-industrial

La Villette: the red follies and the Canal de l'Ourcq

Tschumi's red follies, the mirrored Géode, and a canal you can cross by boat to the cinema.

Photo: Guilhem Vellut / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

Drafted by Claude — the editor hasn’t walked this one yet. We’ll update this notice once it’s been verified on the ground.

Distance

3.3 km

Time

~ 80 min

Difficulty

Easy

End

Corentin Cariou (M7)

Best at

afternoon

Right now
25°C· Overcast

Open in Maps for turn-by-turn, or take it offline as GPX.

La Villette is what Paris did with its old meat district: keep the iron halls, run a canal straight through, and hand the rest to an architect with a grid and a colour. Bernard Tschumi's red folies stand across the lawns like a thought experiment; Jean Nouvel's Philharmonie and the mirrored Géode bookend the nineteenth arrondissement's biggest green space.

Three and a bit kilometres, flat, post-industrial in the best sense. Start at the Philharmonie by Porte de Pantin — climb the outside if you've no ticket. Then north into the park, where the folies give you something to aim for: pick one, climb it, the grid does the rest.

The Canal de l'Ourcq is the spine. Cross it on foot, or take the small ferry that ties the two MK2 cinemas together across the water — a film and a boat in one trip. On the far bank the Géode sphere holds the whole park in its mirror, and the Cité des Sciences fills the old slaughterhouse hall.

End by Le Zénith and walk on to Corentin Cariou for the M7.

The route

On the map.

Elevation

19 m·24 m·4660 m ASL

Stops along the way

Things to notice.

  1. 01
    1

    Philharmonie de Paris

    Jean Nouvel's 2015 concert hall in brushed aluminium, the bird-patterned skin you can climb up the outside of for a free view over the *périphérique*. Start here, by Porte de Pantin, even if there's no concert.

  2. 02
    2

    Tschumi's red follies

    Bernard Tschumi scattered thirty-five bright-red steel *folies* across the park in the 1980s — a grid of follies with no fixed use. Pick one and climb it; children have the right idea here.

  3. 03
    3

    Canal de l'Ourcq

    The canal cuts straight through the middle of the park. The lift bridge and the moored barges are the working past; cross by the footbridge, or wait for the little ferry that links the two MK2 cinemas across the water.

  4. 04
    4

    La Géode

    The mirrored geodesic sphere — an IMAX cinema inside, the whole of the park bent around it outside. Walk right up and find yourself in it. Refurbishment has closed it on and off; the reflection works regardless.

  5. 05
    5

    Cité des Sciences et de l'Industrie

    The vast science museum in the converted 1860s slaughterhouse hall — the building alone is worth the look, all glass and exposed structure. Go in for the planetarium, or just walk the moat gardens around it.

  6. 06
    6

    Le Zénith

    The silver concert tent at the park's northern edge, with the old red 'Trabendo' and the Grande Halle behind. Corentin Cariou station is a short walk on; from here the M7 takes you back into the centre.