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EUR: the Square Colosseum and the lake
monumentalarchitecture

EUR: the Square Colosseum and the lake

Mussolini's marble suburb — the cube of arches, the artificial lake, and the great congress hall.

Photo: Julian Lupyan / Wikimedia Commons, CC0

Drafted by Claude — the editor hasn’t walked this one yet. We’ll update this notice once it’s been verified on the ground.

Distance

4.2 km

Time

~ 95 min

Difficulty

Moderate

End

EUR Palasport (Metro B)

Best at

afternoon

Right now
24°C· Clear

Open in Maps for turn-by-turn, or take it offline as GPX.

EUR is the strangest neighbourhood in Rome: a marble suburb the Fascist regime built south of the city for a 1942 world's fair that the war cancelled, then finished after it as offices and museums. It is monumental, cold, and oddly compelling — Rome imagining itself as an empire one more time, in travertine.

Start at the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, the Square Colosseum, fifty-four arches a side and now the house of Fendi. Walk beneath it; the proportions are the point. Down the ceremonial Viale della Civiltà del Lavoro — built to dwarf you — to Libera's Palazzo dei Congressi, a white box hiding a hall the size of a Roman bath.

Climb to the Basilica dei Santi Pietro e Paolo for the long sightline back to the cube; EUR was drawn as axes, and this is the cleanest. Then the laghetto, the artificial lake with Tokyo's cherry trees, where the district softens into somewhere lived-in. End at Fuksas's Nuvola — a glass cloud answering all that 1930s certainty — and the Metro B at EUR Palasport.

The route

On the map.

Elevation

104 m·91 m·1858 m ASL

Stops along the way

Things to notice.

  1. 01
    1

    Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana

    The Square Colosseum: a white cube of fifty-four arches per face, built for a 1942 world's fair that the war cancelled. Now Fendi's headquarters. Walk underneath it and look up through an arch — the proportions are the whole argument it's making.

  2. 02
    2

    Viale della Civiltà del Lavoro

    The wide ceremonial avenue between the cube and the rest of EUR, lined with the statues and obelisks the regime favoured. It's built to make you feel small; notice that, then keep walking — it's the clearest stretch of the whole plan.

  3. 03
    3

    Palazzo dei Congressi

    Adalberto Libera's congress hall, a great white box with a single vast vaulted hall inside — rationalist outside, almost Roman-bath in there. You can't always go in, but the portico and the staircase are public; sit on the steps and take the scale.

  4. 04
    4

    Basilica dei Santi Pietro e Paolo

    The domed church on the hill, deliberately echoing St Peter's from a distance. Climb the steps for the view back down the axis toward the cube — EUR was laid out as sightlines, and this is the best of them.

  5. 05
    5

    Laghetto dell'EUR

    The artificial lake dug for the fair, ringed by cherry trees the city of Tokyo gave Rome. This is where EUR stops being intimidating and becomes a place people actually live — joggers, prams, a rowing club. Walk the far shore for the skyline reflected.

  6. 06
    6

    Nuvola / EUR Palasport

    Fuksas's 'Cloud', a glass box with a steel-and-fabric blob suspended inside it — the twenty-first century's answer to all that 1930s certainty. A good place to end the argument the walk has been having. Metro B home from EUR Palasport beside it.