EUR is the strangest neighbourhood in Rome: a marble suburb the Fascist regime built south of the city for a 1942 world's fair that the war cancelled, then finished after it as offices and museums. It is monumental, cold, and oddly compelling — Rome imagining itself as an empire one more time, in travertine.
Start at the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana, the Square Colosseum, fifty-four arches a side and now the house of Fendi. Walk beneath it; the proportions are the point. Down the ceremonial Viale della Civiltà del Lavoro — built to dwarf you — to Libera's Palazzo dei Congressi, a white box hiding a hall the size of a Roman bath.
Climb to the Basilica dei Santi Pietro e Paolo for the long sightline back to the cube; EUR was drawn as axes, and this is the cleanest. Then the laghetto, the artificial lake with Tokyo's cherry trees, where the district softens into somewhere lived-in. End at Fuksas's Nuvola — a glass cloud answering all that 1930s certainty — and the Metro B at EUR Palasport.