Golden Gate Park is bigger than Central Park and was built on sand dunes that everyone said would never hold a garden — which is the whole point of it. The east end is the dense end, four great institutions and two gardens inside a kilometre, and three kilometres covers them at a museum-day pace.
Start at the Conservatory of Flowers, the white glasshouse on the rise, and walk down through the dahlias toward the Music Concourse. The de Young and the California Academy of Sciences face each other across it — go up the de Young's tower whether or not you buy a museum ticket, because the lift is free and the view runs to the sea. The Academy's living roof is the counterweight, a meadow lifted onto the building.
Then the gardens: the pollarded plane trees of the Concourse, and the Japanese Tea Garden beside it, laid out in 1894 and quietest in the first hour. Finish at Stow Lake, where the park goes soft and green, and walk out to the N-Judah on Irving for the ride downtown.
