This walk starts with breakfast you eat standing up and ends with tea you drink kneeling down. Tsukiji lost its famous tuna auctions to Toyosu in 2018, but the outer market — the lanes of stalls and knife shops where the city actually shops — never left. Three kilometres from the market to a saltwater garden on the bay, best in the morning before the lanes fill.
Start in the jogai outer market: tamagoyaki on a stick, grilled scallops, tuna over rice, eaten as you walk. Among the food, the knife shops — Aritsugu grinding blades on the spot. At the market's edge, Namiyoke Jinja, the shrine that has warded off waves since the 1600s; bow at the gate.
Then out to the Sumida riverside, where the crowds fall away and the working water opens up. Follow it south into Hama-rikyu, the old shogunal garden, and its tidal pond — Shioiri, still fed by the sea, the last of its kind in the city, the towers of Shiodome standing over the trees.
Cross the bridge to the teahouse on the water for matcha, and circle the three-hundred-year pine on the way out. Shiodome station is a short walk on.


