Leopoldstadt has two faces and this walk takes both: the working market quarter and the great baroque garden a few streets north. Three kilometres, best on a Saturday morning when the Karmelitermarkt is full and the Augarten is still cool.
Start at Taborstraße. The Karmelitermarkt is the obvious first move — on Saturdays the farmers' stalls come out and the square's cafés do their best trade; eat breakfast on your feet. Around the Karmeliterkirche is the Karmeliterviertel proper, the heart of Vienna's pre-war Jewish district and now its quiet revival, with small galleries and bookshops folded between the apartment blocks.
Then north to the Augarten. The Porzellanmanufaktur has been making porcelain on the site since 1718; look in before you walk the garden itself — Vienna's oldest, opened to the public in 1775, all long symmetrical avenues. The thing that stops you is the pair of flak towers, two colossal concrete blocks left standing in the green because nothing could bring them down. They're the oh-my-god: baroque order and a hundred-thousand tonnes of war in the same field of view. Loop back to Taborstraße.
