This is the other Vienna — the one that turned its back on the gilt and built tree-houses instead. Landstraße gives you Hundertwasser's riot of colour and undulating floors, then walks you along the river into the Stadtpark, where the city keeps its gold Strauss and a set of river portals most people miss. Three kilometres, flat, easy.
Start at the Hundertwasserhaus — 1985 social housing where the windows refuse to line up and trees grow from the walls. It's people's homes, so admire it from the corner, then cross to the Kalke Village arcade for the tilting floors. A few streets on, the KunstHausWien puts the same architect's work inside an old furniture factory he reskinned to match.
Then down to the Wienfluss, the canalised river, and follow it upstream into the Stadtpark. Stop at Otto Wagner's Jugendstil river portals — the quiet marvel everyone walks past — before the crowd at the gilded Johann Strauss monument. End on a bench by the pond, with the Kursalon and its waltzes behind you and the U-Bahn at the gate.
