Lisbon's north-east is the city the dictatorship built, and it's far stranger and better than that makes it sound — wide ceremonial avenues, a fountain made for floodlights, and two of the most extraordinary metro stations in Europe hiding underground.
Three kilometres on the flat. Start at Alameda — but look at the tiled platforms before you surface. Up top, the Alameda Dom Afonso Henriques runs as a long gardened avenue climbing to the Fonte Luminosa, the great 1940s stepped fountain built to be lit at night. The cascades don't always run by day; climb the steps beside it anyway for the view straight back down the axis.
West to the Instituto Superior Técnico, the engineering campus — Estado Novo monumentalism in its purest form, ideology cast in symmetry and stone. Then the detour worth making: one stop to Olaias, the most spectacular station in the city, all coloured glass and steel. Ride down, look up, come back. End at Areeiro and the green line home.

