Everyone does Belém for the monastery and the custard tarts. Almost nobody walks the river to get there — which is a mistake, because the walk is the point and the Tejo is the whole show.
Three and a half kilometres along the water, flat the entire way. Start at the Doca de Santo Amaro, directly beneath the 25 de Abril Bridge — stand under the span and feel the traffic hum overhead, then walk out and look back at the thing whole, red against the sky with Cristo Rei on the far hill. West past the Doca de Alcântara and its working quays, the path opening into a real promenade.
The new riverside gardens carry you along Avenida da Índia, the river wide and flat as an inland sea on your left. Then the MAAT — Amanda Levete's tiled white wave of a building. Walk up over its roof even if you don't go in; it's the best free view on this stretch. End at the Belém waterfront, the train a few minutes back, the custard tarts within reach if you've earned them.


