This is the Lisbon that doesn't get drawn on the tourist map, and it's the one I'd send a friend to first. Arroios and Anjos are the city's most diverse quarter — a square kilometre where the shopfronts run Nepalese, Brazilian, Chinese, Bengali and Portuguese, often in the same doorway. The walk is short, flat, and built entirely around what people actually eat.
Start at Anjos metro and let the street do the talking. The Mercado de Arroios is the anchor — a neighbourhood market with a food court that maps the area's kitchens into one room, best around lunch when it's full. Then wander the side streets behind it, where the real cooking hides: momos, Bengali sweets, Brazilian salgados, none of it dressed up for visitors.
Anjos carries some of Lisbon's best murals, and a Sunday flea-and-creative market when the calendar lines up — check before you count on it. Walk down to Largo do Intendente, once the city's roughest square, now anchored by the blue-and-white tiled front of the old Viúva Lamego works. Sit at the quiosque a while.
End at Martim Moniz, kiosks and trams and the metro beneath. No grand finale — just the city, being itself.
