Campo Grande is north Lisbon's green lung — a long thin park with a lake down its spine, two museums on its flank, and the university at its foot. It's a morning walk: museum-and-parkland, low on hills, high on the kind of quiet the tiled-tourist quarters can't offer.
Enter the Jardim do Campo Grande — lately renamed Jardim Dr. Mário Soares — at the north end and walk it the long way. The lake sits mid-park, a wooden walkway crossing it and rowing boats for hire; the walkway is the free pleasure, the boats the optional one.
The Museu de Lisboa – Palácio Pimenta holds the city's own story inside an eighteenth-century palace. Go for two things: the blue-tiled kitchen, a whole room of azulejos, and the great model of Lisbon as it stood before the 1755 earthquake swallowed it. Peacocks in the garden, free to wander past.
A few steps south is the Museu Bordalo Pinheiro — the cabbage plates and grinning ceramic frogs you've seen in every souvenir window, here in their sharp originals. End at the university edge, where Lisbon turns young again, and Entre Campos takes you home.
